The Organic Farm

(12) May 2008 - AG Visits Kamloops


A few years ago we met a young chef at the Cabot Club, Fairmont Newfoundland Hotel. He introduced us to many small courses in one meal, which since has become quite popular in better restaurants in and around town.

David Tombs left his position here and is currently the Executive Chef at Delta Sun Peaks Resort (just North of Kamloops) in BC. My husband and I went to visit there a couple of weeks ago.

The resort is beautifully set back against the hills. There was still some snow on the ground although skiing closed for the season. Delta Hotel is one of the best appointed and most gracious among the handful of other accommodations available at the resort. The restaurant is on the lower floor with an almost life size stone carved bear and the decor throughout shows the pride of BC.

David made us an unforgettable supper. Obviously, he enjoys the almost year around availability of fresh meat and vegetables. As when he was here, he purchases for the restaurant mostly from local farmers, preferably organic. Further, all compost materials are given back to the farmers, making a complete circle.

Our dinner started with Seared Tuna Ahi Loin with Green Beans, Walnuts and Fennel with Lemon Caper Aioli. This disappeared very fast, since we were hungry. The tuna was ever so slightly seared, making it melt-in-your-mouth tender. The walnuts added a wonderful texture and the lemon flavour in the aioli was very refreshing.

The second course was a Hot Smoked (in house) Wild Salmon with Cherry Tomatoes, Asparagus and Mushrooms. This was a great treat, one rarely gets salmon prepared to such perfection.

Next it was Mitchell Mountain Slow Braised Short Rib, Celeriac Remoulade and Watermelon Radish Salad. There is a great deal to be said for slow cooking. The flavours blend and the juices concentrate so eating is a real pleasure. I found the watermelon and radish salad to be unique and very refreshing.

Slow Braised Dominion Creek Ranch Pork Belly with Caramelized Onions and Rhubarb Compote. Again, the slow cooking brings out flavours and the onions with the rhubarb added contrast. This made for a very comforting dinner, specially because when I looked out the window, it just started to snow.

To cleanse our palette, Pineapple Sorbet with Mint Leaf. This was delicious, and I will certainly try to make some for my next company dinner.

The grand finale was a Rack of Jay Springs Lamb, Risotto, Baby Vegetables and Peppered Lamb Reduction. Need I say that the flavours were beautifully blended, the lamb ever so tender, and the risotto creamy. There simply is not much more anyone could possibly ask for.

We hardly had room for desert, but the Lemon Tart, Port Reduction and Fresh Berries were irresistible. What a grand finish to a most wonderful dinner!

I would be remiss if I did not mention the wines. The first two courses were accompanied by 2004 Hugel (Alsace) Gewurztraminer and the remainder of our dinner with 2005 Rolling Dale (BC) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot. We usually enjoy Canadian Wines for the same reason we buy local produce. Besides, Canadian wines have come a long way, particularly the BC wines, in my opinion. The next time you are dining out, try some, I doubt you'll be disappointed.

If you are traveling in BC and could possibly take the time, go to Sun Peaks Resort. We drove from Vancouver in the morning and even with a couple of stops and lunch along the way, easily made it in time for supper. The scenery is beautiful and the highways are good. Just look out for deer, they seem to be as plentiful as are our moose. Now, if we could only encourage our spring to hurry,...........